IDEAL
SKIN
It is extremely rare to have an ideal skin on the whole face. The
ideal skin is actually a skin having a good moisture level, a balanced
secretion of sebaceous glands and a normal blood circulation. To
the touch, it feels flexible, smooth, fine and well irrigated. To
the eye, it has a fine grain and a velvety appearance.
Observations before making-up: regular and stable making-up, no
bright or greasy areas and fine grain. The skin is flexible on the
surface and in depth. It is not too thick (about 1 cm when pinching
it).
MIXED SKIN
Some skins may have one or two types of skin in the same time.
Some examples:
- ideal skin on the forehead and cheeks, oily and seborrhoeic on
the nose and chin.
- fine skin with rosacea on the cheeks, dry and seborrhoeic on the
nose and chin.
- dehydrated, seborrhoeic and rosaceous skin.
In these more complex cases, one will resort to different treatments
that will be applied locally.
DEHYDRATED SKIN
(lacking water)
The dehydration of the skin bears no relation to the sebaceous secretion.
So, a dry, adipous and alipic skin with seborrhoea may be dehydrated.
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The skin may be dehydrated in depth (dermis) or superficially (epidermis). If the dehydration is deep, the skin becomes wrinkled because it lacks tone. It will then be advisable to drink more than usual to supply more water to the dermis cells in order to tone them up.
If the dehydration is superficial, the skin will be tense, bright and scurf patches will appear. Dehydration may be caused by the use of a product that is not suitable for the skin. The climate (sun, dry air..) may also lead to the dehydration of the epidermis. We can e.g. note a tendency to dehydration (or even an advanced dehydration) due to central heating in the winter or to air conditioning in the summer It will then be advisable never to let the skin without a cream.
In the case of an alipic-dehydrated skin, it will be easy to alternate a moisturizing treatment with a nutritive treatment.
In the case of a dehydrated seborrhoeic skin, the dehydration must be treated first, what will ease the extraction of blackheads.
ALIPIC SKIN
(lack of sebum)
Alipic skins result from an insufficient secretion of sebum. These
skins have no natural lubricating protection and are very sensitive.
In general rule, older persons will be affected by this problem.
Indeed, the skin dries out as time passes. It takes the aspect of
a parchment, its grain is very fine, and it is
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very irritable and
very sensitive to cold, sun, heat and wind. It gets very easily
wrinkled and scurf patches – which should not be mistaken
for the scabs caused by dehydration - appear. The treatment will
consist in a better nourishing but also in the use of protection
products. Daily cares are of prime importance. So the aesthetician
will have to give judicious advice, especially for the choice of
adequate creams. Avoid nourishing the skin too much or using too
fatty products. Observations before making-up: the make-up is irregular. One sees
some drier areas, especially around the mouth. Skin lacking vitality.
The person often complains that her skin feels tight.
KERATINISED SKIN
Keratinised skin results from a thickening of the corneal layer
of the epidermis and from a poor or deficient desquamation. The
treatment will consist in removing the superficial layer (to peel
it), what will ease the deep cleansing of the skin.
Characteristics: thick rough skin, sebaceous cysts. A sebaceous
cyst is a comedo whose head is not in contact with the outside,
but lies under the epithelial layer.
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